Victorian Clothing And Fashions: 1830s-1850s.

Queen Victoria reigned from 1837-1901. Her name has been given to this period, the Victorian Era. It is essentially an English (and UK) period, though its fashions and style were then copied by other countries.

During the early part of this period, clothes were generally made-to-order, by tailors or seamstresses, with accessories being made by professional makers, such as milliners or glovers. Later, with the introduction of new mechanisation, including sewing machines, clothes could be more mass-produced. They more often became factory-made, with the rise of the large department stores.

Earlier in the 19th century, fashions stayed in vogue for up to a decade. These advancements in production, and together with those in communications, fashion styles then tended to change on a yearly cycle. This means that accurate dating of Victorian fashions is far more easy later in the century.

In the 1830s, bonnets became very fashionable, displacing the large ‘Great’ hats of earlier. These bonnets were dainty and heavily trimmed and decorated, to be far more gentile than the confidence exuded by the Great hats. Also, the new primness was emphasized by the new ringlet hairstyle and by dress sleeves being narrower. The ‘Gigot’ style was reduced. Bt 1840, the sleeves were even narrower, with a dropped shoulder seam. Boning in the bodice allowed for a very narrow waist. The bodice was very tight and pointed. Later in the 1840s, the shoulder seam was even lower, therefore restricting the arm movements of the wearer, and adding to the perceived helplessness of the Victorian woman! This gentility was  further added to by the use of soft plain fabrics, with delicate patterns.

‘Engageantes’ were worn to add to the lady-like look, and to add variety to the same dresses. These were collars or undersleeves , made of fine laces or linen, and detachable for washing. Theu could then be easily reattached.

In 1841, cartridge pleats were used in dresses to draw up the skirts, with flat pleating used to give width. Also, additional flounces and overskirts were added. Skirts became wider. The fashion of 1842 required extra petticoats for support, using stiffened fabrics. Linen was used, stiffened with horsehair. As the French word for horsehair is ‘crin’, the word ‘crinoline’ was firstly used to describe a stiffened garment foundation lining. By 1850, it described the extra skirt, and by 1856, the large hoop-framed supported petticoats.

Men’s fashions, however, did not change as often, with far less volatility in design!