Needle lace began with the need to mend torn clothes or to hem a piece of fabric to stop it fraying.

By the 1400s, though, thread was being used to decorate the fabric by teasing or braiding the  threads. Cutwork began to appear, with threads being pushed apart and embroidered around.

‘Ladies of the Castle” were required to be accomplished in sewing, and began to experiment with decorating their lavish clothes with silver and gold cutwork.

During the Rennaisance, Venice became the centre for the production of luxury goods, and therefore became renowned for its laces.  Needelworkers came from all over the world to work there, some bringing fine ‘network’ from other countries. This lace-like netting was used in Persia, and Ancient Egypt.

Venician lace makers in the 16th Century developed a means of tracing the outlines of pictures, such as birds and flowers, in fine thread and then filling in with decorative stitches. This was then cut out and used to decorate necklines or tableclothes.

Other forms of lace were developed, such as bobbin lace, in Flanders. This was produced by craftspeople, by weaving thread around thousands of bone bobbins to form strips of very fine lace work.

Lace  became the sign of wealth and refinement, used by those in the courts of Europe as overlays, collars or cuffs. Lace was more precious than gold at this time. Laws were made by many of the world’s rulers to ensure only the rich or powerful were allowed to wear the best laces, so as to keep the ‘class’ distinctions. Lace was able to be used as currency, in place of gold or money!

At the height of its popilarity, nearly one third of the European workforce was engaged in some way with the production of lace, though most earned a very small wage, and under long and difficult conditions. It could take a lace maker a week to produce one c.m of bobbin lace!

Spanish women have worn their beautiful mantillas for centuries. During the 19th Century, it was considered so honoured that it could not be confiscated to pay a debt.

By the 19th Century, though, demand drastically reduced, and machinery was invented to produce lace. Large numbers of lace makers lost their livelihood.

Lace, however, bacame a popular hobby for women during Victorian times. Fine laces were used, and removed over and over to be sewn onto different clothing, as they were so highly valued and cared about.

During Victorian times, women worked for many years on laces to be sewn onto their bridal outfits, and for their babies’ layettes.

By the 20th Century, fine lace was used mostly for lingerie, or by fashion houses, such as Chanel.

Samplers were originally used as a way of learning new embroidery stitches, and of recording which ones were learnt.

They were first used in the latter part of the 16th century when needlework became very important in the education of girls, as it was used to decorate many items in the home, including linen, curtains and upholstery.

Lovely examples of samplers exist from the 17th century, when girls had access to new designs. New printing techniques allowed for patterns to be transferred to fabric, by punching holes in the pattern, placing it on the fabric, and then dusting chalk over the top! These samplers now showed embroidered numbers, letters, verses and illustrations, such as flowers or aspects of home life.

During the 18th century, samplers became more integrated into children’s other lessons, such as religion. They became a symbol of achievement and of virtue, showing embroidery design and religious verses.

The 19th century saw a change in the way that samplers were used. They remained important in the education of girls, however their designs simplified. Cross-stitch was still used to create geometric borders, letters and numbers, and images of domestic and natural themes.

These themes that young girls incorporated into their samplers varied. Memorial samplers were common, as death and illness were a far more common part of life at that time. Others were made to commemorate special places or events. Friendship was also acknowledged through the stitches girls used, with verses telling of remembrance.

By 1900, it was far more common for the samplers to be more practical. Stitches now included button holes, darning and patching. Often the border was now of fabric; a thin band of matching fabric which ‘hemmed’ the piece. Illustrations were used less, as the samplers were again seen as more prosaic, rather than decorative wall hangings.

The tradition of making samplers dimished further in the 20th century. Needlework was still taught in schools, though with a much more functional view. Cushion covers were one method of combining the practicing of embroidery stitches into a practical piece of home furnishing that young girls (or boys) could complete within the school setting.

Samplers have become very collectable. Early ones sell for thousands of dollars, with museums acquiring some of the loveliest ones. There has also been a resurgence amongst embroiderers to create new samplers. These are used to produce a record of  a ‘family’, with details of the embroiderer’s family, such as family members, pets and homes.

Victorian society was very class-conscious, the ‘pattern’ of social life.

The rich were ‘Society’ and shared their time between London and their country homes. Between May and August was the ‘London Season’ of social engagements and entertainment.

Balls and dances were used to introduce young women into Society. A chaperone was always in attendance, who was usually her mother or another married woman. After each dance, the girl was brought back to her chaperone, and it was considered ‘proper’ not to dance with the same partner more than twice.

‘Social calls’ were an important part of Victorian social life. Each ‘call’ was usually of fifteen minutes, and a ‘calling card’ was left on the hall table upon leaving, in order to display the hostess’ popularity.

Nature was a great love of the Victorians. Trips to the countryside, including country walks, mountain climbing and the beach, were cherished. Shells were collected and used to adorn everything from picture frames to lamps and table decorations.

The advent of the railway system enabled travellers to travel further, more quickly, and in more comfort. Day trips became very popular, as were picnics, which were very elaborate. The spread of food was fancy and extensive, with napkins and etiquette.

The annual fair was the highlight for country dwellers, held in the market towns. Here, livestock, produce and fabrics were bought and sold, but it was the excitement of entertainers, gypsies, music, food and alcohol that attracted many more local people! Punch and Judy shows entertained all ages.

Family evenings were spent with quiet amusements. Sewing, card games, reading and board games entertained the family by gaslight. Singalongs were also popular!

Mrs Isabella Beeton, (‘Book of Household Management”, 1861), illustrated the Victorian appreciation of using cream, honey and milk in many sweet recipes. Simple to prepare, but delicious, these recipes are full of nutrition too!

Swiss Cream

1 1/4 cups thick cream

6 sponge fingers

1/8 cup sugar

1 1/4 cups milk

1/4 cup corn starch

liquer or sherry

juice of one lemon

Layer the sponge fingers into a serving bowl and soak in the alcohol. Using 1 tbl of the milk, mix the corn starch to a paste. Place the remaining milk in a saucepan and bring it to the boil, then add the paste. Add whipped cream and lemon juice to the mixture.Pour over the sponge fingers and chill. Decorate before serving with crystalised petals or citrus peel strips.

Fruit Fool

I lb fresh fruit (berries, apples etc)

1 1/4 cups thick cream

sugar

Cook the fruit over a low heat with a small amount of water until soft enough to pulp. Add sugar to taste. Cool well. Whip the cream until stiff and gently add the fruit. Serve in dessert glasses or bowls, and decorate with small sweet biscuits or sugared flower petals.

Angel Food Fudge

2 1/4 cups sugar

2/3 cup honey

2/3 cup cold water

2 egg whites

2 tbl orange juice

1 cup chopped almonds

pinch cream of tartar

In a saucepan, slowly heat the sugar. water, and honey till dissolved. Add the cream of tartar. Boil to 240 degrees, according to a sugar thermometer. Add this mix slowly to the beaten egg whites, stirring well. Stir till stiff, and add the orange juice and almonds. Set in lined or greased pans.

Ice cream was originally invented by the Chinese , but was brought to popularity in Europe by Italian street icecream sellers, during the Victorian period.

Home-made ice cream was also very popular. Isabella Beeton published her very successful book, the ‘Book Of Household Management’ in 1861, and this gave many simple but delicious recipes.

Custard was often used as the basis for many of the different flavours.

Ingredients:

1/2 cup sugar

2/3 cup thickened (full) cream

2 1/2 cup milk

4  beaten egg yolks

Gently warm the milk. Whisk in the egg yolks. Stir over a low heat until it thickens. Do not boil. Cool slightly, and stir in the sugar. When the mixture has properly cooled, the cream is then stirred through.

Using this custard as a base, the following flavours may be added:

-ginger-1/2 cup of chopped crystalised ginger, 1 tbl ginger syrup, 3 3/4 cups of ice cream custard.

-crushed biscuits of your choice-1 cup, 3 3/4 cups ice cream custard.

-coffee-1/2 cup black coffee, 1/2 cup suger (dizzolved in the coffee), 2 1/2 cups ice cream custard, 100ml thickened cream.

-caramelized sugar- 150ml, 2 1/2 cups ice cream custard.

For each flavour, stir the additional ingredients into the custard. Freeze for one hour, then whisk the semi-frozen mixture, and return it to the freezer, for several hours, until serving.

Jam ice cream was also made, substituting the 1/2 cup sugar in the ice cream custard recipe for 1/2 cup of jam of your choice. Apricot or home-made strawberry jam were popular, and economical!

Decorate each serve with your choice of a complimentary garnish such as crystallised gingeror berries, slivered almonds, petals (eg. rose, violets), or sugared peel.

The word “chatelaine’ is derived from Latin, and is the female French word for ‘keeper of the castle’ or country house, and so referred to the person who was responsible for guarding the keys to the castle during Mediaeval times. This person also acted as the overseer of the running of the household. This involved managing the servants, the requisites and the associated book-keeping.

Chatelaines were originally worn by both men and women, as an ornamental clasp on which to hang small ‘necessaires’,  necessary daily household items such as writing instruments, scissors, purses, watches, and of course, keys. It was usually fastened to a pocket, girdle or belt, and had five-seven chains hanging from it, each of which had a hook or swivel catch for attaching the items. Later, they were most commonly worn by women, and became very fashionable as jewellery.

Originally first in use in England in the 17th century, they became very popular during the 18th and 19th centuries.

The  most expensive chatelaines were made of gold, whilst those of lesser cost were made of brass, silver, cut steel, or ‘pinchbeck’, which was a cheaper yellow alloy named after its inventor. Some were decorated with beads, repousse, tassles or enamelling. They could also have been inlaid with precious (diamonds) or semi-precious stones. Later, cameos made from Wedgwood jasperware were popular.

The National Maritime Museum in England has a fine example. Made of brass, it is decorated with the moulded figures of women, with an enamelled plaque of a gentleman, and also features  raised faces on its linked plates. Hanging from it is a thimble, a sheath for scissors, and a pin cushion in the shape of a purse!

By the mid 19th century, chatelaines became less popular as fashionable jewellery, and were used mainly for their functional purpose.

Queen Victoria reigned from 1837-1901. Her name has been given to this period, the Victorian Era. It is essentially an English (and UK) period, though its fashions and style were then copied by other countries.

During the early part of this period, clothes were generally made-to-order, by tailors or seamstresses, with accessories being made by professional makers, such as milliners or glovers. Later, with the introduction of new mechanisation, including sewing machines, clothes could be more mass-produced. They more often became factory-made, with the rise of the large department stores.

Earlier in the 19th century, fashions stayed in vogue for up to a decade. These advancements in production, and together with those in communications, fashion styles then tended to change on a yearly cycle. This means that accurate dating of Victorian fashions is far more easy later in the century.

In the 1830s, bonnets became very fashionable, displacing the large ‘Great’ hats of earlier. These bonnets were dainty and heavily trimmed and decorated, to be far more gentile than the confidence exuded by the Great hats. Also, the new primness was emphasized by the new ringlet hairstyle and by dress sleeves being narrower. The ‘Gigot’ style was reduced. Bt 1840, the sleeves were even narrower, with a dropped shoulder seam. Boning in the bodice allowed for a very narrow waist. The bodice was very tight and pointed. Later in the 1840s, the shoulder seam was even lower, therefore restricting the arm movements of the wearer, and adding to the perceived helplessness of the Victorian woman! This gentility was  further added to by the use of soft plain fabrics, with delicate patterns.

‘Engageantes’ were worn to add to the lady-like look, and to add variety to the same dresses. These were collars or undersleeves , made of fine laces or linen, and detachable for washing. Theu could then be easily reattached.

In 1841, cartridge pleats were used in dresses to draw up the skirts, with flat pleating used to give width. Also, additional flounces and overskirts were added. Skirts became wider. The fashion of 1842 required extra petticoats for support, using stiffened fabrics. Linen was used, stiffened with horsehair. As the French word for horsehair is ‘crin’, the word ‘crinoline’ was firstly used to describe a stiffened garment foundation lining. By 1850, it described the extra skirt, and by 1856, the large hoop-framed supported petticoats.

Men’s fashions, however, did not change as often, with far less volatility in design!

The affluent Victorian home had a charm and a gentleness that created a warm living space. In order to reproduce the authentic look,  in your own Victorian or reproduction house, there are several imported points to consider.

The English Victorian home exuded gentility; the lace and fine china look that we associate with Victoriana. In the US, bolder colour schemes were also often used.

-Curtains were necessary to reduce draughts and keep heat in. These were floor length, held open by elaborate and luxurious tassles. Made of heavy quality fabrics such as velvet, or silk damask, they were often in rich deep greens or reds.

-Paint was used on many surfaces. It was relatively expensive and so was a clear indicator to visitors that the home owner was well- to- do! Not only the walls, but also woodwork trims and ceilings were given particular treatment. Wallpapers coordinated with the colour scheme. If the family was working class, the choices were more limited, as to colours. White-wash was popular, which was watered down and so was more economical. It was especially popular as a finish on bedroom or kitchen walls. In the US, it was popular in 1885 to use vivid reds, oranges, yellows, and chocolate browns! This reflected the Victorian interest in the natural world. Reds and blues were also in fashion in San Franscisco! Rich colours were used on trims and walls.

-White gloss paint was never used, contrary to general perception, as it was not in existence at that time! It should not be used if you are aiming for authenticity.

-The parlour was the focal point of the home.  It is where visitors were entertained, and was filled with the clutter of souvenirs collected on journeys, such as shells, shellwork pictures, and taxidermy! Lace was used as doilies, mantle runners, chair covers, or on tables, over velvets of differing textures. Ceiling roses were popular, often elabourate, and painted in a different colour to the rest of the ceiling, in order to stand out-and impress! The walls were also used as a focal point. A dado rail was used to prevent damage to the walls from furniture knocks.  These divided the wall, and were often painted in rich reds or greens. Elaborate wallpaper was used above the rail. William Morris was one of the most  prized designers of textiles and wallpapers for any home to exhibit! His works were elaborate and of the highest quality, and are very collectable today!

-Carpets were loosely laid, as rugs. The floor boards could be painted at the edges with dark stains, to blend with the edges of the rugs. Morris carpets were, again, highly prized.

The Golden period of the Victorian era between 1837 and 1901 under the reign of Queen Victoria is considered to be the most popular and prosperous era of Britain. Women of this period were known to pay a lot of attention to their clothes which could be the reason they are still so popular today.

One of the most important days in a person’s life is their wedding day. For a bride, the wedding dress plays an important role in ensuring she looks stunning on her big day. Victorian day wedding dresses are still popular two wear on that special day. Elegant with plenty of layered fabric these dresses were high on modesty. Victorian wedding dresses were elegant and simple-often made of ivory as apposed to traditional white. The neckline of the dresses were bordered with handmade lace, arranged in a rumple for adding an extra elegance to the dress.

In spite of the layers beneath the wedding gown, a Victorian bride usually looked slim and tender. This was possible because many of the dresses had a black bodice cinched tightly with a corset worn under it. Open or low-cut bodices were also worn during those days, but the church weddings typically had more concealing bodices. Lace was also an important item of the wedding dress but was really expensive and hence, it was used very rarely or on the dress of wealthy girls.

The jewelry was kept to a minimum during those days unless the bride was presented a jewel piece or gift by the groom. On the other hand, many brides adorned their hair and bodies with orange blossoms (the real orange blossoms were quite expensive) as well-which was an indication of the financial status of the bridal family. The brides also wore gloves that either had a seam split on the finger or arranged in a manner that the gloves might be easily taken-off for putting the ring on!

So, you can see that a Victorian wedding dress exhibited class and elegance! I am sure that a Victorian wedding dress worn by you on your wedding day would certainly set you apart from others!

Rediscover Victorian Charm

Queen Victoria reigned from 1837-1901. Loved and admired by the British people she ruled over what was then the most properous industrialized nation in the world. Known for her dignity and respectability, her name has been given to this period, also known for its decorum and gentleness. Books on manners were popular, the most famous being Mrs Beeton’s “Book of Household Management”. Mrs Beeton (1836-1865) wrote her book as a series of articles then published it as a book in 1861. Good etiquette also included the food served to guests!

Land Of Milk And Honey

Milk and honey were prominent in Victorian cooking. Mrs Beeton thought of milk as “one of the most complete of all articles of food”. In drinks, desserts, cakes and pastries, it was used for its creamy taste and medicinal purposes!
Sugar only became very available in the 18th century. Honey had been the most common sweetener until then, and was still very popular during Victorian times.

Simple And Delicious

Mrs Beeton believed in wholesome yet elegant cooking. These dessert recipes are impressive in their simplicity and taste! Free from artificial ingredients, they are suitable for those sensitive to additives.

Custard

Ingredients
1/2 cup sugar
4 beaten egg yolks
2/3 cup whipping cream (double/heavy/thickened)
2 1/2 cups milk

Method
Gently warm the milk over a low heat until very warm but not boiling. Whisk in the egg yolks then continue stirring over the low heat until the mixture thickens. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar until dissolved. Strain if necessary. Allow to cool completely then stir in the cream.

Ice Custard

Prepare the custard as above. Pour into a pan and place in the freezer until the custard starts to freeze around the edges. Whisk the mixture for one minute then return it to the freezer until frozen. Serve. Decorate with crystalized fruit.

Syllabub

Ingredients
1 1/4 cups whipping cream
1/2 cup sugar
2/3 cup sweet sherry
3 tbl brandy
1 tbl lemon juice

Method
Whisk the ingredients until the mixture thickens. Serve in glasses or glass bowls. (Traditionally, the rims of the serving glasses were dipped in beaten egg white and then into white or brown sugar, for decoration). Decorate with whipped cream and almond slivers. Wafer thin biscuits were also served on the side as an accompliment.

Blancmange

Ingredients
2 cups milk
2 egg yolks, beaten
2/3 cup whipping cream
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 tsp vanilla essence
2 tbl gelatine dissolved in 2/3 cup cold water

Method
Slowly bring the milk and vanilla essence to the boil then beat in a mixing bowl with the egg yolks. Return to the heat and simmer gently until thickened. Mix in the gelatine mix. Allow to cool slightly then stir into the whipped cream. Pour into a mould and refrigerate until set. Unmould to serve, and decorate with a flower bloom.

Angel Food Fudge

Ingredients
2 1/4 cups sugar
2/3 cup honey
2/3 cup cold water
2 egg whites
pinch cream of tartar
2 tsp orange juice
1 cup chopped or slivered almonds

Method
Dissolve the honey, sugar and water in a saucepan over a low heat.. Add the cream of tartar and boil until the mixture reaches 240 degrees farenheit. Gradually stir into the firmly beaten egg whites. Sir in the orange juice and almond. Set in pans and cool until set. Cut into squares to serve.